咖啡業界的Apple!Blue Bottle Coffee「藍瓶」為何能風靡全球?

2019/09/18
寫樂文化
咖啡業界的Apple!Blue Bottle Coffee「藍瓶」為何能風靡全球?
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二○一六年二月一個寒冷的下午,我和太太閒步逛到東京江東區的清澄白河一帶,想找一家安靜的小咖啡店,喝一杯手沖咖啡。在那兒,我們終於遇到了從美國進軍日本、有咖啡界Apple 之稱的「藍瓶」(Blue Bottle Coffee)。

2016年2月一個寒冷的下午,我和太太閒步逛到東京江東區的清澄白河一帶,想找一家安靜的小咖啡店,喝一杯手沖咖啡。在那兒,我們終於遇到了從美國進軍日本、有咖啡界Apple 之稱的「藍瓶」(Blue Bottle Coffee)。

早在二○一四年,我就看到藍瓶有意進軍日本的消息,當時覺得這將會對近年興起的第三波咖啡浪潮發揮推波助瀾的效果,也可能對日本星巴克及其他咖啡連鎖業產生一些衝擊,所以一直密切注意它的動向,也很好奇日本消費者會有什麼反應。

我想,藍瓶刻意挑選清澄白河為落腳第一站,別有用心,這兒雖是地價較便宜的下町住宅區,不時髦卻給人安穩的感覺,有江戶時代日式庭園、東京現代美術館、平價美食和老式雜貨店,充滿復古韻味,加上近幾年有十幾家獨立的個性化咖啡陸續匯集,交織成一股新舊相融的魅力,使這一帶成為東京新崛起的人氣散步景點。如果它在這兒能站穩腳步,到其他地區開店便不成問題了。

事實證明,藍瓶進駐之後,清澄白河這一帶更為熱鬧,在烙上藍色瓶子商標的倉庫式建築內,風格極簡、敞朗明亮,現場煎焙、手沖的咖啡,經常吸引著長長的排隊人龍,聽說剛開幕時,許多人甚至在寒風中排隊三、四小時,就為了一嘗傳說中「有靈魂的咖啡」。

經過了一年,它依然炙手可熱,排隊人潮還未散去,看來,它已得到挑剔的日本消費者的肯定。

隨著咖啡飲用習慣日趨成熟,強調個性化、講究咖啡美學的藍瓶,也在美國掀起一波咖啡革命,得到咖啡愛好者及投資者的認同,逐漸發展成一個跨國的精品咖啡連鎖品牌,成為咖啡業界的新典範。

坦白說,這並不容易,講究咖啡豆產地、自行篩選烘焙,以賽風壺煮咖啡或手沖咖啡的個性化咖啡店,在日本或台灣都不少,但多半是獨立小店,很難變成有規模的連鎖品牌,跨國經營更難,除了扎實的經營knowhow,更需要充沛的資金。

我曾經參與連鎖咖啡品牌的國際化浪潮,看到這樣的變化頗有感觸,的確,顧客一旦習慣飲用咖啡之後,會一直找尋更新、更好的味道及更能觸動心底的消費體驗,可見商業模式的升級與進化沒有止境,即使再成功的品牌,也要不斷嘗試創造不一樣、更能吸引消費者的風格與模式。

過去,人們常以「星巴克經驗」來表現星巴克的魅力,如今,藍瓶則使用「靈魂」這個字眼,傳達其創辦人佛里曼(James Freeman)對咖啡的熱情,這個訴求顯然打動了對咖啡有同樣熱情的消費者,也成功擄獲了投資者的心,雖然營業額不過二千萬美元,短短四年就先後募集到四千六百萬美元的資金。

到底佛里曼是個什麼樣的人?為什麼投資人看好藍瓶?

藍瓶源自美國加州的奧克蘭,二○○二年時,還只是在農夫市集擺攤的咖啡攤位,第一家店還設在車庫裡,連座位也沒有,兩年後成立第一家實體店鋪。

佛里曼成長於加州,自小學習單簧,是個浪漫的音樂人而非數字導向的經營者。他深受日本文化影響,一向推崇日本的職人精神,所以,在成立後的第一個十年內,藍瓶雖然慢慢開始連鎖化經營,但他卻不想大量複製、快速展店,只在美國加州灣區、紐約和洛杉磯慢慢開十幾家店。直到二○一六年,藍瓶在紐約、舊金山、洛杉磯也只開了二十三家店。

第一個十年間,佛里曼把自己對咖啡的熱情與專注,點點滴滴的轉化成藍瓶的營運流程與產品特色。不只講究咖啡品質和風味,他對咖啡的飲用、盛裝等每個細節都十分重視,不論哪一間分店,都堅持採用自行嚴選及烘焙的咖啡豆,並且只販售四十八小時內烘焙的咖啡豆,規定咖啡粉必須在研磨後的四十五秒之內使用,顧客點餐之後再由專業的咖啡師一杯杯手沖,這許許多多的講究,只為了確保咖啡的個性和美味能完整被顧客品嘗到。

此外,他也親自規劃設計每一家店,不論是運用工廠、海邊的倉庫、老劇院的空間,都能與建築及當地文化融合,呈現藍瓶極簡、明亮的獨有風格,以加州的 Palo Alto 分店為例,設在有五十年歷史的劇院兼社區交流中心內,咖啡店內外都有寬敞的空間與座位供人自在的閱讀或討論。
他的用心與經營特質,為藍瓶創造了一種魅力,也創造出品牌與人的情感連結,這種魅力,正好切合近年來高科技產業興起的消費者意識及人性化浪潮,因此獲得美國許多科技界名人的青睞,他們不但是藍瓶的忠實顧客,也爭相成為它的股東。

二○一二年率先投資藍瓶的是天然保養品Nude的創辦人、從事環保商品創投事業的Bryan Meehan,他引介科技界大老、創投公司Index Venture 的Mike Volpi 加入,接著集合Twitter、Instagram、Flickr、Uber 等公司的創辦人,以及曾經跟隨蘋果創辦人賈伯斯的James 比嘉、Google 創投、摩根史坦利等也都先後投資。Meehan 後來擔任藍瓶的執行長,說服佛里曼加速展店及進軍日本,並運用募集的資金協助佛里曼實現他對咖啡進化的創新理想。

藍瓶在清澄白河成功開出一號店後,很快就在東京青山巷弄內一個綠蔭盎然的兩層樓宅院開出二號店,第三家分店以咖啡亭的形式入駐代官山的新地標Log Road,藍瓶的熱潮持續在日本延燒,營業額也快速攀升。

不過,在佛里曼看來,進軍日本市場對藍瓶而言不只是事業的擴展,更是整體品質升級的契機;他認為日本許多小咖啡店的經營者都具備職人的精神,對咖啡充滿熱情也有所堅持,這點與藍瓶的精神吻合,而且日本的服務品質公認是頂尖的,他希望能把日本學到的經營應用在美國的分店。

根據媒體報導,為了實現這個目標,藍瓶並非像當初星巴克進入海外市場時採取合資或授權的方式,而是在日本設立法人自行投資經營。根據我的經驗,這種做法投資頗高也比較費事,卻容易掌握方向,可見佛里曼不但重視咖啡製作的每個步驟及細節,更是一位相當堅持理想的經營者,這正是他的特質,而或許因為這種作風與賈伯斯相似,藍瓶才會被視為咖啡業界的Apple。

藍瓶堪稱當今個性化精品咖啡店的佼佼者,它已走出地區精品咖啡連鎖店的格局,大步邁向國際化,未來的發展與走向將是第三波咖啡浪潮的一大指標。雖然它能否像Apple一樣席捲全球,成為咖啡業界首屈一指的精品品牌還有待觀察,但至少它已打破個性化商店不易連鎖化的魔咒,我認為,未來就看佛里曼及藍瓶的經營團隊能否「莫忘初衷」,繼續堅持他對咖啡的熱情與堅持,保有藍瓶純粹的靈魂。規模化與精緻化、個性化,是天平的兩端,如何求取平衡是最大的挑戰。

台灣精品咖啡當道,也有很多具特色、講究咖啡品質與風味的獨立咖啡館,近幾年市場上更出現不少強調現場烘焙、手沖的咖啡連鎖加盟店,以外帶為主,由於價格約是精品咖啡店的一半,發展速度很快,這種模式有其市場空間,但是很容易被模仿,競爭門檻不高,再加上品質控管不易,營運狀況起伏會比有座位區的星巴克或丹堤來得大,經營風險相對較高。咖啡店本來就是型態十分多元化的一種行業,價格彈性也很高,若想長久經營,還是得想清楚自己為何而存在,如果只專注賺錢,反而未必能長長久久。

本文摘自:《走一條利他的路:徐重仁的9堂共好見學課》
購書連結:博客來金石堂誠品讀冊

圖說明

首圖來源=Blue Bottle Coffee Japan、圖片提供=寫樂文化

★預約下一年度的風格生活!訂閱Shopping Design 雜誌1,000元 https://goo.gl/lnIJdh

【DesignBIZ 專欄觀點】辦公室設計:為什麼它比你想像中更重要?/邱柏文

【DesignBIZ 專欄觀點】辦公室設計:為什麼它比你想像中更重要?/邱柏文
source/JC. Architecture & Design
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工作場域體現了企業文化?辦公室設計與企業品牌、員工招募與績效產出具有實質的關聯嗎?柏成設計創辦人以設計案例分享其成果與影響力。

此篇《DesignBIZ View》專欄發布於《設計新商業 DesignBIZ》 電子報 NO.029 期
點此訂閱 → 掌握設計師、創意總監、創業家的第一手觀察觀點!

Click here to read English version.

最近,一位好友問我:「我們應該找裝修承包商來設計辦公室以節省成本嗎?因為如果透過設計師,那不是會花更多錢嗎?如果我只是分享一些 Instagram 上的照片,承包商就可以幫我們做嗎?」直接找承包商當然可以省下一些錢,但你會希望在你的辦公室看到什麼?你希望透過辦公室呈現怎樣的願景?你想向員工傳達什麼訊息?你期望把公司帶向何方?

我們挑戰過許多辦公室設計,包含傳產:永聯物流開發-物流共和國台北園區辦公室、服裝:H&M 辦公室,以及政府單位:新北市政府辦公室-逗號實驗室等備受讚譽的辦公室專案,我們開始問自己,在辦公室設計中我們追求的是什麼?

重新定義工作場所

問題來了:辦公室設計是否應該關注在成本上?透過雇用承包商模仿 Instagram 上的設計來節省開支,雖然看起來很吸引人,但真正的辦公室設計並不僅僅是美觀和費用。辦公室設計不僅僅是創造一個辦公空間,而是要打造一個能向客戶和員工展示你公司精神和價值觀的環境。辦公室是企業文化和願景的表述。

JC. Architecture & Design Office Living Room Meeting Room
JC. Architecture & Design Office Living Room Meeting Room source/JC. Architecture & Design

舉個簡單的例子:我的設計公司柏成設計,著重在討論創意的可能性,集思廣益創造新的可能。因此,我們很早就決定,會議空間和討論角落在我們的公司文化中非常重要。儘管我們的團隊只有 27 人,但我們還是特意設計了六個不同的討論點,讓大家可以快速聚集在一起提出新的想法,平均每 5.4 個人就可以享用討論空間。

公司文化就是空間形象

從微軟辦公室(新北市和南港)這樣的大型企業,到新北市政府辦公室 - 逗號實驗室這樣的傳統機構,我們承接的每一項辦公室設計,都是為體現組織獨特文化而量身定制的。無論預算多少,所期望的結果都應以公司目標為中心,即彰顯身份和個性、如何協同工作、如何促進團隊的健康和幸福,以及如何與客戶溝通。

永聯物流辦公室 概念
永聯物流辦公室 概念 source/JC. Architecture & Design

像永聯的物流共和國台北園區這樣的辦公室是一個好案例,永聯物流作為台灣首家,也是最大的機構型物流地產開發商,因為企業文化屬於創業型,在設計空間時,我們應用堆疊貨櫃的結構概念,在開放空間中創造各種角落和工作空間,打破辦公室的統一性,同時利用三種物流業常見的材料:混凝土、波紋鋼板和木箱刨花板,展現公司重要的品牌特質。

永聯物流辦公室
永聯物流辦公室 source/JC. Architecture & Design

辦公室設計對績效、觀感與留任率的影響

良好的辦公室設計還有助於提高員工留任率。我的一位好友經營鉸鏈、鉗子等工具進出口,這是個蠻傳統且不太吸引人的行業,相對來說辦公室設計也非常傳統,充斥著工具箱、沒有燈罩的日光燈、塞滿文件亂糟糟的工作桌等等。他告訴我,在辦公室重新設計和改造之前,很難招聘員工。曾有面試者抵達辦公室,還沒走到門口,就被工作環境嚇到而離開了。

也因此,他知道勢必採取一些行動,而重新設計辦公室就是他的解決方案。他改善照明、安裝升降桌、在室內種植了綠植等設施之後,現在員工留任率非常高,招聘也順利許多。這顯示了老闆關心員工,且想給他們最好的環境。更重要的是,員工士氣大幅提升,也越來越有自信,這樣的轉變說明了有效的辦公室設計如何直接影響品牌形象和工作滿意度。

品味在地風味的辦公室設計

不管我們設計什麼,有沒有當地的思想是非常重要的。但在辦公室設計上,這不容易做到,因為在地化設計常常會變成,將台北 101 的剪影放在辦公室門口,代表你來到台灣,這常在國外的辦事處看到。當我們在設計新北市辦公室 - 逗號實驗室時,我們將台灣傳統的「辦桌文化」融入辦公室家具設計, 讓大家可以一起在一張大桌工作,將本地文化的情感與工作環境連結在一起。

New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab concept diagram
New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab concept diagram source/JC. Architecture & Design
New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab
New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab source/JC. Architecture & Design

世界的辦公室設計

今年 4 月的米蘭設計週與米蘭國際家具展覽-Salone del Mobile Milano,吸引了所有知名家具製造商和品牌展示業界最優秀的作品,很可惜今年的展覽相較於去年,辦公室設計的創新明顯減少,不過還是有兩個案例想跟你們分享。

瑞士品牌 USM 持續創新經典的鉻管和框架系統。他們這次將照明集中到鉻管中,隱藏電線管路,不僅保持系統的貯物功能,也能同時照亮展示物品。這個作法也促進了友善植物設計,使植物能夠在貯物系統中茁壯成長,這是對傳統儲物系統巧妙的新設計。

USM Shelving system
USM Shelving system source/JC. Architecture & Design

至於家庭辦公室,我參觀 Desalto 的展位。Desalto 提供了多種適應性的解決方案,可供小型住宅擴展或減少家具,以最大限度利用有限的空間。它的設計提醒了我們,無論生活空間有多小,在家工作仍然是一個可行的選項,這在疫情後尤其重要。

Desalto exhibition
Desalto exhibition source/JC. Architecture & Design

以人為本與健康取向的辦公環境設計

最後,我想分享一些以「人」為中心的設計,以及讓心靈健康的辦公環境設計策略:

每個辦公室都需要儲物空間:與其將它們放置在牆邊,不如在中央設置集中式儲存空間,作為一個高 110 公分的中島櫃,鼓勵同事間的互動和討論。

Taiwan Design Research Institute Office
Taiwan Design Research Institute Office source/Taiwan Design Research Institute

設計周到的照明:減少長時間在強烈均一光線下工作的不適。如果從辦公桌到洗手間的照明環境能變化,就可以讓眼睛從 8 小時的持續人工燈光中獲得休息。

H&M Taiwan Office
H&M Taiwan Office source/JC. Architecture & Design

綠色設計:最大程度地利用自然光和綠色植物,增加人與自然的聯繫。我建議與綠化顧問和景觀美化公司合作,以確保植物的長期壽命,也要準備一筆維護植栽的預算。

Microsoft Office New Taipei City
Microsoft Office New Taipei City source/JC. Architecture & Design

辦公室藍圖的前瞻

辦公室設計的本質超越了節省成本,它體現了公司文化,提升了士氣,並塑造觀感。一個策略性、精心打造的空間不僅僅是一個工作場所,而是生產力、協作和企業身份的熔爐。透過設計思考,我們投資於公司的未來和走進門的每一個人的福祉,讓我們的設計不僅為現在,更為我們的員工和客戶留下長久而深遠的印象。

此篇《DesignBIZ View》專欄發布於《設計新商業 DesignBIZ》 電子報 NO.029 期
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Think office design as part of your company culture, a communication tool.

Price or culture? Recently, a close friend asked me, "Should we look for a contractor to design our office to save costs? Because if I hire a designer, isn't that going to cost more? What if I just share some office Instagram photos that I like as references, and the contractor can build it for us?" Sure, saving a few bucks here and there is possible, but what would you like to see in your office? What vision or spirit do you want your office to embody? What message do you want to send to your employees, or which direction or path would you like the company to take?

As a celebrated office design studio in Taiwan, with acclaimed projects like the Logistic Republic Office, a fashion office H&M Office Taiwan, and a government office New Taipei City Government Office - Comma Lab, we always ask ourselves, "What is it that we are after in an office design?" "What can we do to help the employee and its environment?" "How can design help a brand to give a sense of character and confidence?" and "What 'global conversations' can we add to our client’s office design, so that the office communicates with the world?"

Culture of the Workplace: A Vision Beyond the Price Tag

Should office design focus primarily on cost? While economizing by hiring contractors to mimic designs from Instagram might seem attractive, true office design transcends mere aesthetics and expenditure. Office design isn't just about creating a space where people can work—that’s the bare minimum; it's about crafting an environment that reflects the company’s ethos and values to both clients and employees. An office is a statement of a business’s culture and intention.

JC. Architecture & Design Office Living Room Meeting Room
JC. Architecture & Design Office Living Room Meeting Room source/JC. Architecture & Design

A quick example: my design studio culture is about discussing creative potentials and brainstorming new possibilities. Therefore, very early on, we decided that meeting spaces and discussion corners were important in our company culture. Even though we are only a team of 27, we have purposely designed six different meeting points where we can quickly come together and brainstorm for new ideas, averaging roughly 5.4 people per meeting space.

Cultural is the Spatial Identity

Every office design we undertake, from large corporations like Microsoft Office (New Taipei City and Nangang) to more traditional institutions such as the New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab, is tailored to embody the unique culture of the organization. Regardless of the budget, the desired result should be centered around the establishment’s goals for bringing out identity and character, how they want to work together, how they contribute to the health and well-being of their teams, and how they want to communicate with their clients.

Logistic Republic sketch
Logistic Republic sketch source/JC. Architecture & Design

This company culture ultimately evolves into the brand identity of the space: how the space looks and feels, how workstations are placed, how one moves about the offices, whether the CEO sits with everyone in a non-hierarchical layout, or whether there's a top-down seating environment where a manager overlooks every monitor screen from behind. An office such as the Logistic Republic is a good example to share, showing how brand identity can be showcased in the office arena. Logistic Republic (mother company Ally Logistic Properties) is now one of the main players of logistics property developers and centers in Taiwan, the culture of the business is very entrepreneurial, and the CEO’s thinking is very startup-like. What we thought most about when designing the space was whether we could create small corners here and there to give employees freedom to be creative, instead of an array of tables. We applied the concept of stacking shipping container-like structures to create various corners and workspaces within the open space and disrupt the uniformity of the office, all while showcasing the company's essential brand characteristics using three familiar materials one would see in the logistics industry: rough concrete exposures, corrugated steel sheets, and wooden crate chipboards.

Logistic Republic Office
Logistic Republic Office source/JC. Architecture & Design

Design Impacts on Performance, Perception and Retention rates

Employee retention rates are positively impacted by well-designed offices. My good friend, who runs an import-export business involving toolsets like hinges and pillars—a typically traditional and not particularly enticing industry—faced a design that one could imagine to be very traditional, filled with toolkits, exposed fluorescent lighting, cluttered work desks covered with paper files, and old wooden desks that one can't bring oneself to dispose of, adding to the clutter around the office environment. He revealed that hiring new staff was always a challenge, with unforgettable incidents where potential hires would arrive at the company front door, only to look around and then turn away, heading in the opposite direction.
Deciding to take action, a redesign of his office was the solution. He sought the best in office furniture that was ergonomic and height-adjustable, lighting that was healthy for the eyes, and biophilic walls throughout the office. The results were astonishing; not only was the office up to date with today's standards of office language, but recruitment also became much easier, retention rates of existing employees were high, and perhaps most importantly, staff morale increased dramatically, reflecting their growing confidence. It showcased that the company's values were being infused into everything they do, which was evident in their performances.

Have a Bite into Locality.

Whatever we design, I believe local identity is very important, especially in office design. This is not easy to accomplish, as most of the time, this ends up being a silhouette of Taipei 101, or whichever country they are from. Consider the New Taipei Government Office (Comma Lab) as an example. We thought about whether we could design a huge table that allows everyone to gather and work together, similar to infusing the essence of Taiwan's traditional "banquet culture," tying the emotional bond between work and local culture.

New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab concept diagram
New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab concept diagram source/JC. Architecture & Design
New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab
source/JC. Architecture & Design

The World’s Approach to the Office

With this column set to publish in April, I can’t overlook discussing the Milan Furniture Fair - Salone del Mobile Milano. This event draws all the leading furniture manufacturers and brands to Milan, showcasing the industry's finest. Unfortunately, this year’s fair saw a noticeable decline in innovations in office design compared to the previous year. Nevertheless, I had the opportunity to visit the exhibit of USM, a Swiss brand that continues to innovate its classic rod and joint system. They’ve now integrated lighting into the rods, concealing the electronics to maintain the system’s shelving functionality while also illuminating display items. This addition also facilitates a plant-friendly design, enabling plants to thrive within the shelving system—a clever redesign of traditional storage solutions.

USM Shelving system
USM Shelving system source/JC. Architecture & Design

As for home offices, I visited Desalto's booth, which was particularly relevant in today's world affected by COVID-19 and other communicable diseases. It reminded us that working from home remains a viable option, regardless of living space constraints. Desalto offers numerous adaptable solutions for small residences, allowing for the expansion or reduction of home furnishings to maximize the utility of limited spaces.

Desalto exhibition
Desalto exhibition source/JC. Architecture & Design

A Human-Centric Design & Wellness Approach

Here is how I go about developing a practical methodology for all office spaces, using a human-centered approach & wellness thinking, and I’d like to share my approaches with you:

Every office needs storage. Instead of putting them against the wall, centralized storage in the middle of the floor plate acts as a mid-island table at 110cm tall, encouraging interactions with colleagues and peer-to-peer discussions.

Taiwan Design Research Institute Office
Taiwan Design Research Institute Office source/Taiwan Design Research Institute

Thoughtful lighting: Reduce the discomfort of working long hours under strong uniform light. If the lighting environment can change between your pathway from desk to toilet, that in turn already allows the eyes to rest from the 8 hours of constant artificial light on your table.

H&M Taiwan Office
H&M Taiwan Office source/JC. Architecture & Design

Biophilic design: Maximizing natural light and greenery taps into the innate human connection with the natural world and boosts well-being and employee satisfaction. This is not easily done, and I suggest working with a green consultant and plant management company to ensure the longevity of the plants, be ready to have a healthy maintance budget too.

Microsoft Office New Taipei City
Microsoft Office New Taipei City source/JC. Architecture & Design

The Office Blueprint Forward

In wrapping up, the essence of office design transcends cost-saving; it embodies a company’s culture, boosts morale, and shapes perceptions. A strategic, well-crafted space is not just a place of work but a crucible of productivity, collaboration, and corporate identity. By investing in thoughtful design, we invest in our company’s future and in the well-being of everyone who walks through its doors. Let’s design not just for the now, but for the lasting impression our spaces will imprint on employees and clients alike.

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