10個概念,拆解米蘭的購物地標——文藝復興百貨la Rinascente

2019/05/23
malt麥芽
10個概念,拆解米蘭的購物地標——文藝復興百貨la Rinascente
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購物不僅需要靈感,還需要突發奇想。

購物不僅需要靈感,還需要突發奇想。

義大利米蘭,文藝復興百貨(la Rinascente),世界購物地標,過去、現在和未來最優雅的購物天堂。

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文藝復興百貨建於1950年,由Molteni和 Reggiori兩位建築師設計建造,恰巧當時剛剛在米蘭與聖拉德貢達(S. Radegonda)的古修道院首次使用愛迪生發明的發電裝置。該建築外觀簡約,正面以大理石修砌,拱廊仿製於埃馬努埃萊二世拱廊街的柱廊,頂層的巨型窗戶飛檐淩空。

「La Rinascente文藝復興」這個名字源自於詩人Gabriele D'Annunzio之手,由於1917年商場發生了一場嚴重的火災,幾乎摧毀了整個百貨商店,因此當時的所有者就以此方式進行命名,以表達其「浴火重生」的欲望。

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一個世紀前,Senatore Borletti應Senatore Borletti要求重新命名了文藝復興百貨商店。同料想的一致,這位詩人使用一個動詞代替了一個名詞,「rinascente」是一個過去分詞,字面意思為“參與”。這個動詞完美表述了“文藝復興百貨”的含義:將義大利的歷史與現實相融合,通過對創新的不斷追求來詮釋和改變服裝。該動詞表示一種隨著時間的不斷變化而不停重覆的動作。

為了慶祝「文藝復興百貨」藝術誕生100周年,一場由米蘭文化城和帕拉佐利亞市聯合舉辦的展覽於5月24日在王子公寓一層拉開帷幕,該展覽將持續至9月24日。這是一場由Sandrina Bandera和Maria Canella共同締造的非線性及情感之旅。該展覽的統籌機構為Memoria & Progetto文化機構,展覽內容涵蓋文藝復興百貨相關方面,展品分列於幾個大廳內的11個房間內。

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這個房間數量比「Rinascente」的字母長度還多1個。10個字母,代表著透過「文藝復興百貨」的歷史及其多樣的身份所體現出來的10個概念。
 

概念01-R, READY TO WEAR 開啟成衣時代

文藝復興百貨與時尚

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文藝復興百貨的創始人Ferdinando Bocconi於1865年成為第一位出售及製造成衣的人。從那時起,時尚與百貨公司之間的夥伴關係變得密不可分:事實上,文藝復興百貨是20世紀50年代時期開啟義大利成衣時代的革命先鋒,這一切的誕生來自於與1957年從文藝復興百貨開啟自己職業生涯的具有天生巧妙直覺的設計師喬治·阿瑪尼,還有首次在文藝復興百貨找到自己在義大利的“家”的皮爾·卡登。至今,文藝復興百貨仍舊是成衣時尚界最為真實的寫照,致力於創新的它一如既往地貢獻著獨特與非凡。
 

概念02-I, ILLUSTRATION(插圖)

文藝復興百貨與Marcello Dudovich

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Marcello Dudovich海報作品 圖片來源=malt

1921年至1955年期間,被譽為義大利現代海報之父之一的Marcello Dudovich擔任了文藝復興百貨的視覺監制。這些傑作的藝術水準,時至今日仍舊位於行業頂尖,無法被超越。與其說是直覺造就,業界更認同其品味高超。其表現出來的完美平衡成為文藝復興百貨於王宮展覽上所詮釋的「交流是一種藝術」的最好例子,該展覽上Marcello Dudovich的作品占據了整整一個區的展位。

Marcello Dudovich (1878年3月21日 – 1962年3月31日),是意大利畫家、廣告藝術家;與 Leonetto Cappiello、 Adolf Hohenstein、 Giovanni Maria Mataloni和Leopoldo Metlicovitz齊名為意大利現代海報之父。
 

概念03-N, NAMES(名字)

文藝復興百貨與奇蹟締造者

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RINASCENTE同時也記載了義大利設計、藝術及時尚的歷史。這座「文藝復興聖庭」中記錄了幾位這個國家最為重要的人物:該名稱創造者D’Annunzio、商店櫥窗設計師Bruno Munari,從事行政工作的Gio Ponti、Roberto Sambonet和Salvatore Quasimodo,甚至包括Giorgio Armani。
 

概念04-A, ART(藝術 )

RINASCENTE與藝術

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Fortunato Depero 作品。絕對的圖形大師。之前很少看到介紹,太驚喜了。 圖片來源=malt
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Bruno Munari 設計老頑童,他的大腦應該和章魚一樣,有無限的外空智慧的連接。 圖片來源=malt

毫無疑問地,鼓勵接近藝術已成為文藝復興百貨的深刻見解之一,同時也是使其成為偶像的元素之一。這不光體現在由其出品的小太陽產品的理念中,而從1953年至今由Munari所設計的商店櫥窗擺設更是完全詮釋了這一深刻見解。這些由國際知名藝術設計及建築設計界的大佬們所設計的作品堪稱真正的的藝術品。

Palazzo Reale展覽中展出了藝術家們Depero, Munari, Melotti, Fontana, Soldati, Ceroli, Rotella, Warhol, Pistoletto和Manzoni的作品。文藝復興百貨及其與藝術的關系同時也代表了該百貨公司的歷史變遷:每一年他們都會同藝術締結新的夥伴關系。它和Paola Pivi、Zim&Zou、John Armleder和Moritz Waldemeyer之間的合作就是很好的例子,這些合作使得文藝復興百貨具備了藝術畫廊的特性。
 

概念05-S, SOCIETY(社會)

RINASCENTE與米蘭

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文藝復興百貨是米蘭的鏡子:其持續不斷的研究及不停歇的動力,以及它通過捕捉捕捉日益流動的時代精神的變化來打開國際創新大門的能力。作為這座城市的標籤,文藝復興百貨已然成為朗巴德資本的主要機構之一。而在Palazzo Reale舉辦本次100周年展覽的決定也來源於此:這整個聯盟作為一個整體,在一般及具體的層面山都象徵著這個城市的精神。而文藝復興百貨無疑是這個城市的中心。

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概念06-C, COMPASSO D’ORO

RINASCENTE與設計

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Compasso d’Oro靈感來源於Gio Ponti 及Alberto Rosselli,並得到了Aldo Borletti和Cesare Brustio的強力支持,這一獎項充分展示了文藝復興百貨在在促進國際設計方面的興趣和激情。自1954年誕生以來,該獎項一向被譽為工業設計界的最高榮譽,而工業設計在近幾年也變得越來越重要。在本次的展覽中,公眾將能夠在一個專門的展區內回顧該獎項歷年來的獲獎作品。
 

概念07-E, EMBLEM(象徵)

RINASCENTE及其標籤

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Max Huber 裁定的 la Rinascente logo 圖片來源=malt
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Palazzo Reale 米蘭王宮 圖片來源=malt

文藝復興百貨希望將百貨商店變成一個標誌性符號的意圖成為了連接整個百貨公司歷史的主線。這不僅僅只是關於選擇一個令人難忘的名字,或僅僅是任命設計師Max Huber為logo主設計的決定,同時也標誌了整個文藝復興百貨的歷史。此次在Palazzo Reale的整個展覽中,通過其華麗而完美的結構,描繪了一個獨特而明確的世界,而這些來源都可以追溯到該名稱:文藝復興百貨。
 

概念08-N, NEWNESS 新奇

RINASCENTE:未來的鏡子

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創新為使命。2016年,世界上最大的百貨商店協會授予了文藝復興百貨一個獎項,該獎項是為了表彰其在店內體驗及顧客服務方面的創新能力和傑出表現。這一行為不僅僅是該協會的選擇或者是決定,更多的是一種被世人所接受的事實。
 

概念09-T, TIMELINE 時間線

RINASCENTE及其歷史

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La Rinascente代表了義大利150年來的歷史:服裝、時裝和設計,它同時也代表了藝術及其詮釋社會變化的能力,同時也是意大利製造的起源。本次的展覽將通過Salvatore Carrubba, Giangiacomo Schiavi, Giuseppe De Finetti和Giovanna Rosa的作品,告訴大家一個關鍵的觀點,使大家明白我們從何而來,又將去往何處。
 

概念10-E, EVENTS事件

RINASCENTE:經驗收集者

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人們在文藝復興百貨的體驗並不以購物為終結。在其中購物的體驗是一種集合體,循序漸進地,它以獨特的名義,將百貨公司變成了一種感官的綜合:表演、裝置、烹飪節目、獨家預告以及線下活動。在此次展覽中,文藝復興百貨四維世界通過時間及空間的延展,被呈現在博物館的展覽區中,囊括了這個事件的百年歷史。

Text by Phoebe, Luyi,Michael Wang. Illustrtion by Simone Massoni

本文授權轉載自malt麥芽,原文請點此

【DesignBIZ 專欄觀點】辦公室設計:為什麼它比你想像中更重要?/邱柏文

【DesignBIZ 專欄觀點】辦公室設計:為什麼它比你想像中更重要?/邱柏文
source/JC. Architecture & Design
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工作場域體現了企業文化?辦公室設計與企業品牌、員工招募與績效產出具有實質的關聯嗎?柏成設計創辦人以設計案例分享其成果與影響力。

此篇《DesignBIZ View》專欄發布於《設計新商業 DesignBIZ》 電子報 NO.029 期
點此訂閱 → 掌握設計師、創意總監、創業家的第一手觀察觀點!

Click here to read English version.

最近,一位好友問我:「我們應該找裝修承包商來設計辦公室以節省成本嗎?因為如果透過設計師,那不是會花更多錢嗎?如果我只是分享一些 Instagram 上的照片,承包商就可以幫我們做嗎?」直接找承包商當然可以省下一些錢,但你會希望在你的辦公室看到什麼?你希望透過辦公室呈現怎樣的願景?你想向員工傳達什麼訊息?你期望把公司帶向何方?

我們挑戰過許多辦公室設計,包含傳產:永聯物流開發-物流共和國台北園區辦公室、服裝:H&M 辦公室,以及政府單位:新北市政府辦公室-逗號實驗室等備受讚譽的辦公室專案,我們開始問自己,在辦公室設計中我們追求的是什麼?

重新定義工作場所

問題來了:辦公室設計是否應該關注在成本上?透過雇用承包商模仿 Instagram 上的設計來節省開支,雖然看起來很吸引人,但真正的辦公室設計並不僅僅是美觀和費用。辦公室設計不僅僅是創造一個辦公空間,而是要打造一個能向客戶和員工展示你公司精神和價值觀的環境。辦公室是企業文化和願景的表述。

JC. Architecture & Design Office Living Room Meeting Room
JC. Architecture & Design Office Living Room Meeting Room source/JC. Architecture & Design

舉個簡單的例子:我的設計公司柏成設計,著重在討論創意的可能性,集思廣益創造新的可能。因此,我們很早就決定,會議空間和討論角落在我們的公司文化中非常重要。儘管我們的團隊只有 27 人,但我們還是特意設計了六個不同的討論點,讓大家可以快速聚集在一起提出新的想法,平均每 5.4 個人就可以享用討論空間。

公司文化就是空間形象

從微軟辦公室(新北市和南港)這樣的大型企業,到新北市政府辦公室 - 逗號實驗室這樣的傳統機構,我們承接的每一項辦公室設計,都是為體現組織獨特文化而量身定制的。無論預算多少,所期望的結果都應以公司目標為中心,即彰顯身份和個性、如何協同工作、如何促進團隊的健康和幸福,以及如何與客戶溝通。

永聯物流辦公室 概念
永聯物流辦公室 概念 source/JC. Architecture & Design

像永聯的物流共和國台北園區這樣的辦公室是一個好案例,永聯物流作為台灣首家,也是最大的機構型物流地產開發商,因為企業文化屬於創業型,在設計空間時,我們應用堆疊貨櫃的結構概念,在開放空間中創造各種角落和工作空間,打破辦公室的統一性,同時利用三種物流業常見的材料:混凝土、波紋鋼板和木箱刨花板,展現公司重要的品牌特質。

永聯物流辦公室
永聯物流辦公室 source/JC. Architecture & Design

辦公室設計對績效、觀感與留任率的影響

良好的辦公室設計還有助於提高員工留任率。我的一位好友經營鉸鏈、鉗子等工具進出口,這是個蠻傳統且不太吸引人的行業,相對來說辦公室設計也非常傳統,充斥著工具箱、沒有燈罩的日光燈、塞滿文件亂糟糟的工作桌等等。他告訴我,在辦公室重新設計和改造之前,很難招聘員工。曾有面試者抵達辦公室,還沒走到門口,就被工作環境嚇到而離開了。

也因此,他知道勢必採取一些行動,而重新設計辦公室就是他的解決方案。他改善照明、安裝升降桌、在室內種植了綠植等設施之後,現在員工留任率非常高,招聘也順利許多。這顯示了老闆關心員工,且想給他們最好的環境。更重要的是,員工士氣大幅提升,也越來越有自信,這樣的轉變說明了有效的辦公室設計如何直接影響品牌形象和工作滿意度。

品味在地風味的辦公室設計

不管我們設計什麼,有沒有當地的思想是非常重要的。但在辦公室設計上,這不容易做到,因為在地化設計常常會變成,將台北 101 的剪影放在辦公室門口,代表你來到台灣,這常在國外的辦事處看到。當我們在設計新北市辦公室 - 逗號實驗室時,我們將台灣傳統的「辦桌文化」融入辦公室家具設計, 讓大家可以一起在一張大桌工作,將本地文化的情感與工作環境連結在一起。

New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab concept diagram
New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab concept diagram source/JC. Architecture & Design
New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab
New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab source/JC. Architecture & Design

世界的辦公室設計

今年 4 月的米蘭設計週與米蘭國際家具展覽-Salone del Mobile Milano,吸引了所有知名家具製造商和品牌展示業界最優秀的作品,很可惜今年的展覽相較於去年,辦公室設計的創新明顯減少,不過還是有兩個案例想跟你們分享。

瑞士品牌 USM 持續創新經典的鉻管和框架系統。他們這次將照明集中到鉻管中,隱藏電線管路,不僅保持系統的貯物功能,也能同時照亮展示物品。這個作法也促進了友善植物設計,使植物能夠在貯物系統中茁壯成長,這是對傳統儲物系統巧妙的新設計。

USM Shelving system
USM Shelving system source/JC. Architecture & Design

至於家庭辦公室,我參觀 Desalto 的展位。Desalto 提供了多種適應性的解決方案,可供小型住宅擴展或減少家具,以最大限度利用有限的空間。它的設計提醒了我們,無論生活空間有多小,在家工作仍然是一個可行的選項,這在疫情後尤其重要。

Desalto exhibition
Desalto exhibition source/JC. Architecture & Design

以人為本與健康取向的辦公環境設計

最後,我想分享一些以「人」為中心的設計,以及讓心靈健康的辦公環境設計策略:

每個辦公室都需要儲物空間:與其將它們放置在牆邊,不如在中央設置集中式儲存空間,作為一個高 110 公分的中島櫃,鼓勵同事間的互動和討論。

Taiwan Design Research Institute Office
Taiwan Design Research Institute Office source/Taiwan Design Research Institute

設計周到的照明:減少長時間在強烈均一光線下工作的不適。如果從辦公桌到洗手間的照明環境能變化,就可以讓眼睛從 8 小時的持續人工燈光中獲得休息。

H&M Taiwan Office
H&M Taiwan Office source/JC. Architecture & Design

綠色設計:最大程度地利用自然光和綠色植物,增加人與自然的聯繫。我建議與綠化顧問和景觀美化公司合作,以確保植物的長期壽命,也要準備一筆維護植栽的預算。

Microsoft Office New Taipei City
Microsoft Office New Taipei City source/JC. Architecture & Design

辦公室藍圖的前瞻

辦公室設計的本質超越了節省成本,它體現了公司文化,提升了士氣,並塑造觀感。一個策略性、精心打造的空間不僅僅是一個工作場所,而是生產力、協作和企業身份的熔爐。透過設計思考,我們投資於公司的未來和走進門的每一個人的福祉,讓我們的設計不僅為現在,更為我們的員工和客戶留下長久而深遠的印象。

此篇《DesignBIZ View》專欄發布於《設計新商業 DesignBIZ》 電子報 NO.029 期
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Think office design as part of your company culture, a communication tool.

Price or culture? Recently, a close friend asked me, "Should we look for a contractor to design our office to save costs? Because if I hire a designer, isn't that going to cost more? What if I just share some office Instagram photos that I like as references, and the contractor can build it for us?" Sure, saving a few bucks here and there is possible, but what would you like to see in your office? What vision or spirit do you want your office to embody? What message do you want to send to your employees, or which direction or path would you like the company to take?

As a celebrated office design studio in Taiwan, with acclaimed projects like the Logistic Republic Office, a fashion office H&M Office Taiwan, and a government office New Taipei City Government Office - Comma Lab, we always ask ourselves, "What is it that we are after in an office design?" "What can we do to help the employee and its environment?" "How can design help a brand to give a sense of character and confidence?" and "What 'global conversations' can we add to our client’s office design, so that the office communicates with the world?"

Culture of the Workplace: A Vision Beyond the Price Tag

Should office design focus primarily on cost? While economizing by hiring contractors to mimic designs from Instagram might seem attractive, true office design transcends mere aesthetics and expenditure. Office design isn't just about creating a space where people can work—that’s the bare minimum; it's about crafting an environment that reflects the company’s ethos and values to both clients and employees. An office is a statement of a business’s culture and intention.

JC. Architecture & Design Office Living Room Meeting Room
JC. Architecture & Design Office Living Room Meeting Room source/JC. Architecture & Design

A quick example: my design studio culture is about discussing creative potentials and brainstorming new possibilities. Therefore, very early on, we decided that meeting spaces and discussion corners were important in our company culture. Even though we are only a team of 27, we have purposely designed six different meeting points where we can quickly come together and brainstorm for new ideas, averaging roughly 5.4 people per meeting space.

Cultural is the Spatial Identity

Every office design we undertake, from large corporations like Microsoft Office (New Taipei City and Nangang) to more traditional institutions such as the New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab, is tailored to embody the unique culture of the organization. Regardless of the budget, the desired result should be centered around the establishment’s goals for bringing out identity and character, how they want to work together, how they contribute to the health and well-being of their teams, and how they want to communicate with their clients.

Logistic Republic sketch
Logistic Republic sketch source/JC. Architecture & Design

This company culture ultimately evolves into the brand identity of the space: how the space looks and feels, how workstations are placed, how one moves about the offices, whether the CEO sits with everyone in a non-hierarchical layout, or whether there's a top-down seating environment where a manager overlooks every monitor screen from behind. An office such as the Logistic Republic is a good example to share, showing how brand identity can be showcased in the office arena. Logistic Republic (mother company Ally Logistic Properties) is now one of the main players of logistics property developers and centers in Taiwan, the culture of the business is very entrepreneurial, and the CEO’s thinking is very startup-like. What we thought most about when designing the space was whether we could create small corners here and there to give employees freedom to be creative, instead of an array of tables. We applied the concept of stacking shipping container-like structures to create various corners and workspaces within the open space and disrupt the uniformity of the office, all while showcasing the company's essential brand characteristics using three familiar materials one would see in the logistics industry: rough concrete exposures, corrugated steel sheets, and wooden crate chipboards.

Logistic Republic Office
Logistic Republic Office source/JC. Architecture & Design

Design Impacts on Performance, Perception and Retention rates

Employee retention rates are positively impacted by well-designed offices. My good friend, who runs an import-export business involving toolsets like hinges and pillars—a typically traditional and not particularly enticing industry—faced a design that one could imagine to be very traditional, filled with toolkits, exposed fluorescent lighting, cluttered work desks covered with paper files, and old wooden desks that one can't bring oneself to dispose of, adding to the clutter around the office environment. He revealed that hiring new staff was always a challenge, with unforgettable incidents where potential hires would arrive at the company front door, only to look around and then turn away, heading in the opposite direction.
Deciding to take action, a redesign of his office was the solution. He sought the best in office furniture that was ergonomic and height-adjustable, lighting that was healthy for the eyes, and biophilic walls throughout the office. The results were astonishing; not only was the office up to date with today's standards of office language, but recruitment also became much easier, retention rates of existing employees were high, and perhaps most importantly, staff morale increased dramatically, reflecting their growing confidence. It showcased that the company's values were being infused into everything they do, which was evident in their performances.

Have a Bite into Locality.

Whatever we design, I believe local identity is very important, especially in office design. This is not easy to accomplish, as most of the time, this ends up being a silhouette of Taipei 101, or whichever country they are from. Consider the New Taipei Government Office (Comma Lab) as an example. We thought about whether we could design a huge table that allows everyone to gather and work together, similar to infusing the essence of Taiwan's traditional "banquet culture," tying the emotional bond between work and local culture.

New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab concept diagram
New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab concept diagram source/JC. Architecture & Design
New Taipei Government Office - Comma Lab
source/JC. Architecture & Design

The World’s Approach to the Office

With this column set to publish in April, I can’t overlook discussing the Milan Furniture Fair - Salone del Mobile Milano. This event draws all the leading furniture manufacturers and brands to Milan, showcasing the industry's finest. Unfortunately, this year’s fair saw a noticeable decline in innovations in office design compared to the previous year. Nevertheless, I had the opportunity to visit the exhibit of USM, a Swiss brand that continues to innovate its classic rod and joint system. They’ve now integrated lighting into the rods, concealing the electronics to maintain the system’s shelving functionality while also illuminating display items. This addition also facilitates a plant-friendly design, enabling plants to thrive within the shelving system—a clever redesign of traditional storage solutions.

USM Shelving system
USM Shelving system source/JC. Architecture & Design

As for home offices, I visited Desalto's booth, which was particularly relevant in today's world affected by COVID-19 and other communicable diseases. It reminded us that working from home remains a viable option, regardless of living space constraints. Desalto offers numerous adaptable solutions for small residences, allowing for the expansion or reduction of home furnishings to maximize the utility of limited spaces.

Desalto exhibition
Desalto exhibition source/JC. Architecture & Design

A Human-Centric Design & Wellness Approach

Here is how I go about developing a practical methodology for all office spaces, using a human-centered approach & wellness thinking, and I’d like to share my approaches with you:

Every office needs storage. Instead of putting them against the wall, centralized storage in the middle of the floor plate acts as a mid-island table at 110cm tall, encouraging interactions with colleagues and peer-to-peer discussions.

Taiwan Design Research Institute Office
Taiwan Design Research Institute Office source/Taiwan Design Research Institute

Thoughtful lighting: Reduce the discomfort of working long hours under strong uniform light. If the lighting environment can change between your pathway from desk to toilet, that in turn already allows the eyes to rest from the 8 hours of constant artificial light on your table.

H&M Taiwan Office
H&M Taiwan Office source/JC. Architecture & Design

Biophilic design: Maximizing natural light and greenery taps into the innate human connection with the natural world and boosts well-being and employee satisfaction. This is not easily done, and I suggest working with a green consultant and plant management company to ensure the longevity of the plants, be ready to have a healthy maintance budget too.

Microsoft Office New Taipei City
Microsoft Office New Taipei City source/JC. Architecture & Design

The Office Blueprint Forward

In wrapping up, the essence of office design transcends cost-saving; it embodies a company’s culture, boosts morale, and shapes perceptions. A strategic, well-crafted space is not just a place of work but a crucible of productivity, collaboration, and corporate identity. By investing in thoughtful design, we invest in our company’s future and in the well-being of everyone who walks through its doors. Let’s design not just for the now, but for the lasting impression our spaces will imprint on employees and clients alike.

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